The crags that make up the Alabama Hills are located in the Alabama Hills Recreation Area, land that is administered by the Bureau of Land Management. The BLM have made a success story of climbers and land managers working together to preserve the environment, archaeological and historical sites and traditional forms of recreation. The hills are famous for all the movies they are in. They have this eerie western feel so were used in the old spaghetti westerns. More recently, The Flintstones movie was filmed here. They film all the time, so if you see other user groups, please keep your distance.
The truth is the Alabama Hills are filled with loose rock, except in those areas that rarely see the light of day - so most of the climbing is concentrated in north and east-facing box canyons. The process of case hardening has produced a baby-butt smooth surface on the rock. Add a little erosion and you get chicken heads, overhanging jug hauls, thin edging and friction. But not every hold is alike; some are waiting to snap off and spook you. It adds to the sense of adventure. With use the rock will clean up, for now proceed with awareness.
North Face (Right to Left)
A: Blockade Runner 5.10c *** Excellent edge climbing. This old bolt ladder has had the bolts replaced and moved to make it more leader friendly. 6 bolts to chains.
B: Dihedral Dance 5.10c *** Wild steep climbing. 6 bolts to chains.
C: Gone with the Wind 5.10a *** Arete. The best route on the crag, possibly one of the best routes in the Hills.
West Face (Right to Left)
D: Virginia Soil 5.9 (TR) Right side of Arete.
E: Southern Man 5.9 ** Face left of V cracks. 7 bolts.
F: Sweet Home Alabama 5.10a Left V crack. 2 bolt anchor.
G: Sherman's March 5.10b Right V crack. 6 bolts to anchors. Rap Gone with the Wind
Directions: This excellent rock is located approximately a half mile south of Whitney Portal Road on Horseshoe Meadows Road. Follow along the north side of the rocks on your right to a prominent west face with a V crack on its right side. The north face has the best rock. From the published "Guide to the Alabama Hills" by Michael Strassman